Revell Corvette ZR1

My latest project was the Revell Corvette ZR1 in 1/25 Scale.

This represents the newer C6 body style.

Featuring a clear panel in the hood so you can see the supercharged engine lurking underneath.

 



The contents of the box are well done, and there was no flash anywhere to be removed, as you would expect from a newer tooling. Parting lines were minimal and required little clean-up.

One that I did miss was this little beauty on the underside of the chassis pan. Yes, I know it was a Revell kit molded in China.

A little work with some sandpaper, and quick re-spray, and it's gone!

Or at least well enough for this one.

I wasn't planning a completely detailed kit. Just wanted it to fill a spot on a shelf next to all it's other brothers from Chevrolet.

A few steps later, and the engine is mostly in, along with the driveline and interior.

Again I left off the seat decals, and a few other small parts, as they will hardly be visible through the small windows.

Still missing here is the radiator and supercharger shroud. But it's starting to look mean!

For the body I chose a darker metallic red that I like. While not entirely a correct "factory" color for the ZR1, I think it shows well here.

A quick test fit of the body on the chassis just to make sure everything lines up, and sits where I want it to.

So several steps later, and lots of little bits and pieces added, it's complete.

Still a little dusty as I took the pictures in a hurry.

It's middle of winter here, and got a quick afternoon with some sunlight coming in, so I grabbed a few quick pictures while I had the chance.

 

Overall, I really enjoyed this kit, and felt that it went together pretty well, with only 1 real problem.

The supercharger sits where it should in the hood opening (I had heard it may sit too low). I am more than pleased with the final results of my "not too serious build."

 

The one problem that I did encounter was the windshield.

I am not sure if I was fitting it wrong, or if it came warped in the box...

But as you can see, it didn't fit the frame quite right. The driver's side, and top of the windshield fit just fine. I tried several different ways, and could never get all 4 corners to fit where I needed at the same time.

So I tried something I knew I shouldn't.... I tried to flex it back.

Regular styrene has some "give" and can be bent.

NOT CLEAR PLASTIC.

I even tried heating it some to make it more pliable....

Nope...

 

So now it fits flush, but it is in two pieces.

I may be looking for a windshield in future, but for now.... It will be good enough.

 

Not sure what is next....

But I do have a Hotwheels Porsche 356 Custom, for the local trade/swap day this weekend yet to unveil...

 

 

Quick tip - clear plastic pieces

Just about finished up with my next project, and thought I would share this quick tip...
I think it is pretty well known, but I still see lots of pictures of models that haven't done this....

The little clear plastic pieces that go over headlights on modern cars, often look "plastic-ey" and fake to my eye. Part of this reason is the scale thickness. For the strength required to be de-molded in the manufacturing process, as well as handling during assembly, they need to be very thick for the relative scale. While I don't have a micrometer to measure, they look to my eye to be a couple of inches thick in scale.

Which is fine if you are modeling a presidential limo, or other "bulletproof" car, it doesn't look right to me.

So what I like to do is trace the inside very edge of the plastic with a black Sharpie marker. This helps to hide the refraction at the edge of the piece, and make it appear thinner.

As seen here, you don't get a "glowing" edge where it shows off the thickness.

It also has the added feature of appearing as the gasket around the headlight lens cover on most modern cars.

Seen here on the front of my almost finished Corvette ZR-1.

(oh man, I should have dusted that off before the picture).
But hopefully you can see the difference.

Oh, and remember how I mentioned the thickness of the clear plastic? Well, that clear plastic is also much more brittle than the regular styrene that the rest of the kit is molded in, so be careful.

You can also use the Sharpie on the inside of the windshield to create the black surround. In this kit Revell provided a nice line molded all the way around to guide where I needed to color. Other manufacturers go as far as providing actual pre-cut masks to help you with the painting of this surround.

Up next, the finished ZR-1, with a slightly damaged windshield!