So I recently started a model that is a re-issue of an older kit.
I love the subject matter, and am quite excited, but have come across a problem common with these re-issued kits.
Flash
No, not like that....
Flash is a common name for the thin layer of plastic that squeezes out between the two halves of a mold when creating the overall runner of parts.
On a newer tooled kit, you may hardly even notice the "parting line"... The small seam of extra material from where the two halves of the mold were placed together.
Most noticeable on round pieces... there will be a small raised ridge.
On older kits, as time goes by, and thousands of reproductions are made, the gap starts to get bigger, and more material is able to ooze out between the mold halves.
Usually it is a very thin piece, and is easily removed with a sharp knife and some sandpaper....
But I just thought I would share, as this kit shows a great example of "flashing".
More on what this kit is going to be coming soon!
Showing posts with label Tips and Tricks. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Tips and Tricks. Show all posts
Tuesday, August 30, 2016
Monday, January 11, 2016
Quick tip - clear plastic pieces
Just about finished up with my next project, and thought I would share this quick tip...
I think it is pretty well known, but I still see lots of pictures of models that haven't done this....
The little clear plastic pieces that go over headlights on modern cars, often look "plastic-ey" and fake to my eye. Part of this reason is the scale thickness. For the strength required to be de-molded in the manufacturing process, as well as handling during assembly, they need to be very thick for the relative scale. While I don't have a micrometer to measure, they look to my eye to be a couple of inches thick in scale.
Which is fine if you are modeling a presidential limo, or other "bulletproof" car, it doesn't look right to me.
So what I like to do is trace the inside very edge of the plastic with a black Sharpie marker. This helps to hide the refraction at the edge of the piece, and make it appear thinner.
As seen here, you don't get a "glowing" edge where it shows off the thickness.
It also has the added feature of appearing as the gasket around the headlight lens cover on most modern cars.
Seen here on the front of my almost finished Corvette ZR-1.
(oh man, I should have dusted that off before the picture).
But hopefully you can see the difference.
Oh, and remember how I mentioned the thickness of the clear plastic? Well, that clear plastic is also much more brittle than the regular styrene that the rest of the kit is molded in, so be careful.
You can also use the Sharpie on the inside of the windshield to create the black surround. In this kit Revell provided a nice line molded all the way around to guide where I needed to color. Other manufacturers go as far as providing actual pre-cut masks to help you with the painting of this surround.
Up next, the finished ZR-1, with a slightly damaged windshield!
I think it is pretty well known, but I still see lots of pictures of models that haven't done this....
The little clear plastic pieces that go over headlights on modern cars, often look "plastic-ey" and fake to my eye. Part of this reason is the scale thickness. For the strength required to be de-molded in the manufacturing process, as well as handling during assembly, they need to be very thick for the relative scale. While I don't have a micrometer to measure, they look to my eye to be a couple of inches thick in scale.
Which is fine if you are modeling a presidential limo, or other "bulletproof" car, it doesn't look right to me.
So what I like to do is trace the inside very edge of the plastic with a black Sharpie marker. This helps to hide the refraction at the edge of the piece, and make it appear thinner.
As seen here, you don't get a "glowing" edge where it shows off the thickness.
It also has the added feature of appearing as the gasket around the headlight lens cover on most modern cars.
Seen here on the front of my almost finished Corvette ZR-1.
(oh man, I should have dusted that off before the picture).
But hopefully you can see the difference.
Oh, and remember how I mentioned the thickness of the clear plastic? Well, that clear plastic is also much more brittle than the regular styrene that the rest of the kit is molded in, so be careful.
You can also use the Sharpie on the inside of the windshield to create the black surround. In this kit Revell provided a nice line molded all the way around to guide where I needed to color. Other manufacturers go as far as providing actual pre-cut masks to help you with the painting of this surround.
Up next, the finished ZR-1, with a slightly damaged windshield!
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